Fitting One Piece Crank

[spike371]

I was asked about fitting crank bearings etc today, so thought i would post this up. It has come from the other side, so most have probably already seen it

TO MAKE IT CLEAR BEFORE WE START!

When I refer to the Left or Right hand side I imagine this as though you were sitting on the bike! So the Right-Hand side of the crank contains the chainwheel and the Left-Hand side obviously doesn't.

Every nut on the RIGHT-HAND side is a coventional right-handed thread so, RIGHT to TIGHTEN.....LEFT to LOOSEN

Every nut on the LEFT-HAND side is a left-handed thread so, RIGHT to LOOSEN.......LEFT to TIGHTEN.

In this how to I'm assuming that you have removed the crank for a service or re-spray and are replacing the same crank. However, if you are replacing the crank using a different chainwheel to the original this may require the addition of a spacer washer between the chainwheel spider and the bearing nut ( see photo's on the Crank Removal thread in this section ) A spacer will only be neccessary if you are using a new chainwheel of a larger diameter. The easiest way to determine the neccesity of a spacer is to fit the chainwheel to the crank, slip the ballrace on, then thread the crank through the bottom bracket and into position, if the chainwheel rubs on the bottom of the rear forks then you're gonna need a spacer to increase the distance between the two.


Confused?...............good

OK.................Here we go

YOU WILL NEED

A bottom bracket set and/or bearings
Lithium based grease
A 32mm spanner or adjustable wrench
A hammer
A large flat bladed screwdriver
and finally............................Patience!

I'm going to assume that you've already bolted the Chainwheel to the crank, using any spacers neccessary for your particular diameter of chainwheel and observing that you've got the chainwheel on the right way round! (It's easily done- let me tell ya:oops: )
REMEMBER, you're dealing with the RIGHT-SIDE of the crank at this time so the Bearing Nut tightens in a CLOCKWISE direction.

OK, so your chainwheel is fitted to your crank and you're ready to go!

Facing the RIGHT-SIDE of the bottom bracket, smear some grease on the inside. You needn't use your expensive Lithium based, any old stuff will do, it's just to prevent the bottom bracket from rusting inside out!

Now apply your lithium grease to the bearing cup.


Now, on the crank, thread your bearing ring on noting that the bearings are facing inwards. You'll soon see if you have them the wrong way round because it will not sit flush on the bearing nut.
OK, now smear some grease onto the face of the bearing nut.

Now push the bearings onto the nut and apply grease to the bearings themselves so it looks something like this

You can now thread the crank through the bottom bracket and into position

From the LEFT SIDE of the crank apply grease to the bearing cup as you did on the chainwheel side

Thread the remaining bearing onto the crank noting again its orientation, bearings facing inward towards the cup

Push the bearings into the cup and cover with grease


Thread the bearing ring onto the crank

Tighten the ring onto the crank in an ANTI-CLOCKWISE direction, but only do it up hand tight


RIGHT!...........Now we're gonna set up the crank


Now, grab the frame in one hand and the pedal arm in the other and check for any lateral movement in the crank.
If you have any movement just tighten (ANTI-CLOCKWISE) the bearing ring, using a screwdriver in one of the slots if neccessary)

Continue checking for movement until there is none!
When you've reached this point, rotate the crank 180 degrees clockwise, and the same anti-clockwise.
Don't be tempted to spin the crank because the bearing nut is not locked-off at this point and you'll only loosen or tighten the nut depending on which way you spin!
When you have free movement in both directions plus no lateral movement in the crank you're ready to move on. Getting this right is just a matter of patience. Just keep loosening or tightening the bearing nut until you get it!

OK, thread the tabbed spacer washer onto the crank making sure to locate the tab into the slot on the threaded part of the crank. The purpose of this washer is to prevent any movement in the bearing nut when you tighten up the lock nut against it...............well that's the theory anyway!


Now thread the Lock Nut onto the crank and tighten ANTI-CLOCKWISE using a 32mm spanner or similar


The Lock nut is so called because it locks all the components of the crank! DO THIS UP TIGHT...............THEN CHECK IT IS TIGHT!

Finally, spin the crank.................If it spins freely give y'self a big pat on the back and treat y'self to a cold beer!
If it's stiff you'll have to remove the lock ring and the spacer and loosen the bearing washer slightly. Refit the spacer and nut and check again!
Like I say, it's a matter of trial and error to get it right. In time you'll be able to strip and refit a crank in the time it takes to boil a kettle..............until then just be patient............you'll get it in the end.
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[Dice22]

make this a sticky top stuff spike
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Best Mini Burner Winner BB09 and BB10

[Stella Dave]

common sense really!
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[big burner]

Nice piccys

[lip nobody]

shite ive got me balls the wrong way round
























no funny comments please


and moddy dont let on about what i did today
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girlfriends..

who fecking needs em

[modfather]

PMSL!!!!! i knew there was summat wrong about the way the bearings were inserted i was confuse remember AND you BOASTING at me you were the MASTER OF CRANKS PMSL!!! when you had it on the right side of the bike oh MY GOD!!!
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PEREZ Modfather Hilton, EM KAY 1 MUTHAF@CKA!

[leemadz]

Too much colour in that writing Spike.
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[spike371]

Read the post i didnt write it, i stole it
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Its all fun till you lose an eye, then its just fun you cannot see

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[lip nobody]

[Giuseppe]

that's a great step by step guide mate.

thanks

Giuseppe
:D

[super tuff]

most helpfull

didnt explain to me bout the 1st bearing nut going on though... not the bearing ring, i had a bearing nut 1st to go in place and then i had nothing to tighten it on with, a washing machine hose tightener expanded wide enough to do the trick though £2 at b&q :)... then i could put the 1st bearing cup in place
then everything went nice
i didnt have cheap grease though only lithium so that went on everything lol is that ok ?

and how come the guy got none on his hands in the pics... i got grease on kitchen floor, my adidas trackies, my hands and my nose as my nose started itching like mad just when i had my hands full
:)

[robbo1970]

I seem to have an extra washer in my BB set??

[Daletsunami]

that's alright mate you don't need it

It will be a spacer for the chainring which you won't need

[robbo1970]

Cheers mate.

Hope the foot is feeling better.

[wesreid]

i just put the crank on my burner for mock up it looks ace